With 2016 shaping up to be another cracking vintage for Bordeaux wines, I was keen to see what all the fuss was about. I attended the 2016 Bordeaux en primeur tasting, hosted by Berry Brothers in Lindley Hall in Victoria.
There were an impressive 117 different wines you could try from a total of 56 estates. Many had brought along their 2012 vintage to taste as a comparison (the 2012 was not such a strong vintage and the wines are generally more accessible, ready to drink earlier on).
A star in heaven
So, no messing about, let’s get straight to the star of the show. The 2016 Figeac was pure heaven. Apart from one thing….the price that goes with it! While my tasting sample was being poured, I dived straight in and asked the vineyard representative: “Why such a jump in prices?” (approximately a 66% increase on the 2015 release).
“It’s all about the increase in quality and the investment we have made in the winery” I was informed. Since 2012 there have been a number of changes at Figeac, which have pushed quality levels into new, unchartered territory. And with this goes an increase in demand. Unfortunately, this also means higher prices.
Before the 2016 Bordeaux en primeur campaign started, Figeac was on my wish list. However, when I saw the release price I was put off. But now that I have tasted some, I could well be tempted to invest in a case! And it looks like the 2017 might be even better, in spite of the frost that hit the vineyards in April. The frost is likely to have a greater impact on quantity rather than on quality. Which will mean even higher prices!
For me, the Figeac was a class above some of the other big hitters at the show, such as Chateau La Conseillante and Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron.
The longest finish
What about the mid-price bracket? One notable highlight was the rich, silky and sumptuous Clerc Milon, which resulted from the estate’s longest ever harvest, lasting until 17th October. The grapes were small and plentiful, giving intense dark fruit flavours.
Another winner was the elegant, soft, feminine Calon Segur. The 2016 harvest coincided with the launch of their new vat cellars after two years in the pipeline. The flavours are intense yet already soft and silky. I can’t wait to try this again in ten years’ time!
But for me, the real stand out was the 2016 Chateau Haut-Bailly. What made it a cut above the rest was a magical and incredibly long finish (I think I can still taste it now!). Their secret, as the vineyard representative explained to me, was that they don’t focus on over-ripening their grapes or using too much new oak as in other parts of Bordeaux (which, I was told, is to appeal to the American critics).
I found the Beychevelle and Langoa Barton offerings from the St Julien appellation to be a little too closed to fully appreciate (as a novice in en primeur tasting, it can be hard to judge a wine which will not be ready for a decade or so). Whilst the quality is undoubtedly there, these were not so accessible on the palate this early on, though I’ll look forward to tasting them in many years to come.
On a budget
And for a low budget? Well, recommended by my Berry Brothers account manager, Ben Upjohn, was the 2016 Chateau Chasse-Spleen (the leading estate from the Moulis appellation) at £129 for six bottles. With black fruit flavours and hints of cedar, liquorice and spice, this is an interesting wine and at a superb price!
Overall, the quality at the event was consistently high and there was an unbeatable amount of choice on offer. If you are stuck for a wine to choose from the 117 there, you can’t go wrong with the 2016 Chateau Batailley, which at £250 a case was punching well above its weight. I’d strongly recommended it for that special birthday or anniversary in a few years time!
Do you have a favourite Bordeaux wine? Email us at paul@thecuriousgrape.co.uk
